Process

I handcraft all of the pieces in this shop - from leather bags and belts to statement jewelry. Here you'll find the details on the materials and process used to make my leather pieces specifically.

It all starts with high quality leather...

My pieces are made using primarily oil tanned leather - known for it's combination of durability and supple feel. I use Full Grain Leather, which is the top layer of leather (and the highest quality). Full Grain leather is more durable than top grain or genuine leather, which are made from lower levels of the hide, it's also the most attractive, and only improves with age, developing a patina and often deepening in color. The thickness is uniform, and the surface is smooth and even toned. There are sometimes subtle variations in the surface of the leather, which is to be expected from a natural material - you're most likely to see any of these subtle variations in my non-black leather pieces; the black leather is extremely uniform and doesn't lighten in color where it's bent and shaped.

First steps

After I inspect each piece of leather and ensure it's uniform and without defect, I carefully cut out the pattern for the piece I'm making. Most of my pieces are made such that all parts of the pattern can be cut from the same piece of leather, so the color and tone will match exactly. I use a leather edge beveler to round the edges of most pieces, although with some I find the look of sharp, clean edges more suitable. You're always welcome to request one or the other for any of my pieces, if you have a preference.

Culte du Cuir bag making process - beveling edges of pattern

Culte du Cuir bag making process - burnishing the underside of the leather.

Smoothing raw surfaces

Next I use a burnishing gum and hardwood tools to burnish the edges and underside of the leather. This eliminates the leather 'fuzzies' that you often see on the backside of leather. I also find that burnishing leather gives it a more supple feel and makes it hold it's shape better, for pieces that need to be shaped (such as bags and clutches).

Molding and shaping

This step is only used for my bags - I crease and fold the corners to form the desired shape immediately after burnishing. If I need to use a tool to help shape the leather, I put layers of soft cloth between the tool and the leather to avoid tool marks as much as possible. I rarely use tools, however, and stick to using my hands, which is more difficult and time consuming, but prevents leaving any tool marks on the surface of the leather.

Culte du Cuir bag making process - shaping the leather

Culte du Cuir bag making process - punching holes for hand stitching

Leather Punching

If the piece requires stitching, I use tools to punch the stitching holes for perfectly uniform spacing.

Hand Stitching

All of my pieces requiring any sewing are completely hand stitched - I never use a machine. I use thick, waxed nylon thread intended for sewing leather - it's incredibly strong, annoyingly so...if I ever have to take a piece apart, it's with a lot of difficulty. But unless you plan on deconstructing it, there's no downside for you!

Culte du Cuir bag making process - hand sewing a zipper for a clutch

Culte du Cuir bag making process - hand stitching leather over sterling silver earring hoops

Jewelry

When I use leather in my jewelry, the same processes apply. Only real leather is used, and every piece is hand stitched.

Final touches

Before packaging your new piece up beautifully for you - I clean each piece and condition the leather. I then give it a light wax, using a all natural balm of beeswax and mink oil.

Pieces are thoughtfully and carefully wrapped in tissue paper to protect from any damage during shipping. I want the unboxing experience to be special - I package each piece so that when you receive it, it feels luxurious.

All of my bags and clutches come with a dust bag as well.

Culte du Cuir bag making process - giving the clutch a final wax

a note for those with pet sensitivities:

I work out of my home workshop - while my home is smoke free, I do have a dog, and she is always glued to my side, whether I'm working or not. I wouldn't have it any other way, even if it was possible to keep her away from my work. - although currently it isn't even an option. As an allergy sufferer myself, I appreciate that this could be an issue for some - so I want to be transparent about this.

If you have severe allergies to dogs, you may want to reconsider whether my shop is the best option for you. I take great care to keep products free from hair - everything is checked over carefully as I prepare and package them - but I do have a permanent shadow that sheds; please consider this prior to making a purchase if it could be an issue for you!

Thanks so much for your understanding.

Warmly,

Emily (and Leeloo)